CyprusVista

You might think that the Troodos Mountains in Cyprus are pretty much a work of art in their own right. In winter, the peaks of this spine of mountains sparkle with snow, and yes, you can even ski on Mount Olympus. In spring, the mountainsides explode with beautiful wild flowers, and in summer, the forests provide cool picnic spots and a welcome escape from the coastal heat.

Yet most visitors to Cyprus don’t come to see this natural beauty, but manmade treasures instead. They arrive in their hundreds outside very ordinary-looking churches, some as about as pretty as a cow barn, and some about as small. However, inside most Troodos Mountain churches in Cyprus you’ll find a riot of glorious painted colours and golden icons, some of the finest Byzantine frescoes in the world. In fact, they are so rare and so special, that nine Troodos mountain churches enjoy UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site status.

When you first walk into these churches, the level of decoration is almost too much to take in, so much exuberance and artistic fervor in such a small space. It is humbling to think that most frescoes date from 11th to the 14th century, as they seem so bright and fresh. So, take your time to admire them, and don’t let tour guides or groups rush you.

In fact, CyprusVista recommend you hire a car and explore for yourself rather than join a tour, so you have time to visit some churches that coaches cannot reach. Here are our top tips for discovering the treasures of the Troodos painted churches in Cyprus:

 • If you have time for only one Troodos church, head for Archangelous Michail, in Pedoulas. Here, the frescoes have been restored, so they look much as they did when first painted in 1474.

 • Spa lovers should head for the sulphur springs at Kalopanagiotis, site of the 11th century monastery of Agios Ioannis Lampadistis. Here, you can take in the art and take the waters as well if you are brave (be advised, these are cold springs!). There are actually three churches, all under a single roof. Their frescoes show the amazing meeting of east and west, as the images show the influence of native Cypriot artists having spent time in Italy.

 • Coaches can’t make it down the small side roads to the isolated 12th century church of Panagia tou Asinou. Here, the colourful frescoes painted in 1105 are considered the very best in Byzantine art. Afterwards, enjoy an al fresco lunch at nearby Omodos, known for its high quality wines, but if you’re driving, skip the tempting tastings and take home a bottle for later instead.

 • If you’re based in western Cyprus in the Paphos area, and don’t want to drive too far, you can still get a taste of the Troodos without venturing too far off a main road. Take the B7 from Pafos towards Polis, to the village of Stroumbi. Here turn up the E703 towards Pano Panagia; the road is good but with enough mountain-type turns to feel authentic. Near Pano Panagia is the monastery of Chrysorrogiatissa, which has an impressive collection of icons all under one roof - and its own range of wines to take home!

 • Ancient churches may not seem an ideal place to take younger children, but they’ll find plenty to see in the frescoes, with a little help. Arm them with a check sheet to spot and count children or animals in the frescoes, and they’ll happily scan more art than you ever thought possible. One favourite for youngsters to look out for at Agios Ioannis Lampadistis, for example, is the rather fed-up donkey that is carrying Christ into Jerusalem.  Remember, these churches are still places of worship, so give the kids plenty of run around time outside in between church interiors, and pack a picnic for a lazy lunch and snooze in the shady forests.

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