Since 1974, the map of Cyprus has been dominated by the division of the island by the UN Green Line, marking the border between south Cyprus and Northern Cyprus. However, it should actually been the Green Lines, plural. Thanks to historical anomalies, there is a tiny pocket of North Cyprus territory tucked inside south Cyprus, at Kokkina.
Kokkina lies on the west coast of Cyprus, along the main coastal road from Polis to Kato Pyrgos. Kato Pyrgos is the last major town in south Cyprus before the border, on the edge of the wide sweep of Morphou Bay. The closest border point is at Limnitis, a small village near the ancient palace at Vouni, and yesterday it became a political hot-spot for all the wrong reasons.
Last July, South Cyprus had allowed around 1000 Turkish Cypriots to visit Kokkina for an annual event commemorating the bombing of villages in the area during the troubles of 1964. Kokkina is now a military zone, as the original residents were all evacuated to the Yenierenköy in the Karpas peninsula in North Cyprus. The Turkish Cypriots visitors were allowed into south Cyprus at the Limnitis border point, which is not officially open for border crossings.
However, when a group of pilgrims from Kato Pyrgos wanted to use the crossing to celebrate Mass at the Christian Orthodox church at the monastery of of Saint Mamas, (Agios Mamas) at Güzelyurt (Morphou), the authorities in North Cyprus decided not to give permission for the group to cross at Limnitis. The Mass was to celebrate the Saint’s day, in a beautiful church that shines with Byzantine art, embellished with gold leaf.
Crossing the border at Limnitis saves literally hours of travel via the normal open border route, which involves driving to Nicosia, back down to Peristerona, through pretty tortuous mountain roads to the coast, and round Pomos Point, to end up less than 15 kms west of where you started!
Sadly, such a decision comes just before the start of the UN-organised head to head talks between President Christofias of south Cyprus and North Cyprus leader Mehmet Ali Talat. The two leaders had already met in March and stated that “The issue of the opening of the Limnitis crossing and other crossings is also on the agenda for the coming meetings of their advisers.”
However, the North Cyprus authorities still do not regard Limnitis as a a crossing point - yet. Let’s hope it stays high on everyone’s agenda, for the benefit of residents on both sides.
Golden frescoes at the church of St Mamas. Photo by Ai@ce at flickr.com
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